One Hour Inspection for Imported Textiles at Shantou

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According to Shantou Inspection and Quarantine Bureau, imported textile products at Shantou Port can finish all relevant inspection and quarantine procedures at land carriage ports at once from July, 2014. Therefore, enterprises can save a lot of time when managing such business. The business time decrease from 1-2 days originally to only 1 hour at present. By now, Shantou Inspection and Quarantine Bureau has inspected and released 26 batches of imported textile products.

Shantou Inspection and Quarantine Bureau stated that the new mode of inspection for imported textiles is one time declaration, one time inspection and one time release. This mode changes the previous problems that enterprises could not finish inspection of imported products at the port for just one time.

Staff of Shantou Inspection and Quarantine Bureau introduced that this mode saves a lot of labor, resources and time. It is thus more convenient for trade.

Located in Guangdong, Shantou is one of the most important textile and apparel production bases. In 2013, there were total 846 batches of imported textile products and raw materials went through Shantou Port.

Shantou Inspection and Quarantine Bureau actively follow the requirements of “actually changing inspection, quarantine and regulatory functions” to intensify comprehensive reform of the business. On basis of risk analysis, Shantou Inspection and Quarantine Bureau decided to adopt new mode. Enterprises hand in written statements to declare that the products and imported channels are compliant to the related laws and regulations. The enterprises must be responsible for all issues concerning safety, hygiene and products quality. The Inspection and Quarantine Bureau mainly relies on port inspection and detection report provided by third party. The unqualified enterprises must be held accountable.

The staff also said that their work quality and efficiency have been greatly improved since the application of new mode.

Features of Straight Draft and Skip Draft

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Straight draft and skip draft are the most commonly used drafting system to express drafting plan of woven structure.

Features of straight draft:
1.Straight draft is the simplest type of draft forming basis from many other drafts.
2.Straight draft is mainly used with any number of held shafts.
3.Every successive thread is drawn on each successive shaft. The first thread on the first shaft, the second on the second shaft. The last thread of the warp repeat is drawn in the last shaft.
4.The number of held shafts is equal to the number of warp in the repeat.

Features of skip draft:
1.Skip draft is used for weaving the fabric having high density of warp threads and the same structure.
2.2, 4 or 6 held shafts are used for drafting system.
3.It is able to decrease the density of held on each shaft and reduce the friction of threads against thread and thread against held.
4.Skip draft is used in plain weave.

Properties of Point Draft and Broken Draft

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Point draft (also called as V-Draft) and broken draft are two of the most important drafting systems for woven design. Point draft and broken draft are used for various types of critical drafting plan.

Properties of point draft:
1.Point draft is mainly used for woven structures symmetrical about the centre which are used for producing diamond effect.
2.When the straight draft cannot be applied for large repeat, the point draft is used.
3.The point draft is a combination of straight drafts which constructed firstly in one direction and then on other.
4.The change in direction takes place on the first and last shafts of the draft which are the point of reversal.
5.The first and last shafts carry only one end each whilst all the held shafts in the middle carry two ends per repeat of the draft.
6. The number of ends per repeat of the design= (2 x Number of held shaft) – 2

Properties of broken draft:
1.Broken draft is a type of point draft (modified point darft).
2.It combines straight drafts with different directions of construction.
3.The direction is not reversed on the last or the first shaft. When the direction is reversed, the first thread of the next group is higher or lower than the last thread of proceeding group.
4.Broken draft is used to produce Herring Bone Twills, Diaper design and some other weave.

Fundamental Factors Affect Woven Cloth Structure

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Woven cloth structure differs because of various fundamental factors. Fundamental factors have great influence on woven cloth structure.

Yarn types: Yarn types decide the appearance of the woven fabric. Yarns are classified into natural and synthetic. A fabric could be weaved by single types of yarn or the combination of natural yarn and synthetic yarn based on the requirements of customers. The appearance of same structured cloths could vary on the yarn types.

Count of yarn: Count of yarn means the fineness of the yarn having great impact on the fabric structure. Designer chooses the count of the yarn for requirements. The woven cloth structure varies on the count or relative thickness of the yarn which is used as warp or weft. In general, warp has less count than weft.

Number of ends and picks: The woven cloth structure varies on the relative setting or the number of ends and picks. Ends and picks are placed side by side in a given width the length of cloth which is determined by EPI and PPI having influence on the weight of fabric. The number of ends and picks also affects comfort.

Interlacing system: Woven cloth structure also varies on the order of interlacement of ends and picks. Plain, twill or satin are different from each other. Interlacement depends on the design of the fabric.

Finishing: Finishing operation has impact on the appearance of the woven fabric. By finishing modifications, fabrics become smooth, hard, water proof or fire proof.

China Textile Export Faces Threat From ASEAN

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According to statistics from China Textile Products Import and Export Chamber of Commerce, exported textile products and clothings from China to America reached 19.45 billion USD in the first half of 2014. It realizes a steady growth of 6.9%. Among that, textile products grew by 5.7% and clothings rise by 7.4%.

However, no enterprises feel relaxed even under such a positive situation. They states that export trade is actual a passive action that limited by market changes. One must focus on the changes all the time to avoid failure.

Zhu Zejiang, the general manager of Guangdong Foshan Tongze Company said, “Compared with 2013, there do has a slightly growth this year. We have made a growth at nearly 10%. The first several months in 2014 are relatively slack while orders increased after April. This is closely related to the improvement of American economy.

Export volume and growth range are important indexes when evaluating trend of China export. However, shares of China products in American market can truthfully reflect status of China textile and clothing industry in global industry.

According to the statistics from American Customs, China textile products and clothings accounted for 34.7% of American market from January to May 2014, which decreased by 0.5% compared with the same period in 2013. What’s more, the share decreased progressively month by month during that period.

At the same time, Association of Southeast Asian Nations (ASEAN) accounted for 20.1% from January to February, similar to the same period in 2013. And then, the data increased from March. In the end, share of ASEAN in American market is 20.7% from January to May, increased by 0.3% than corresponding period in 2013.

Although a growth of 0.3% is small, it reveals potential risks for China export enterprises. Some companies have run into the facts of losing customers. It is a warning. Countries like Vietnam have similar industrial mode and workers’ quality with China. Production costs there are lower. Therefore, companies from Vietnam are great threats to us. China might lose its winner status in textile export.

Dyeing Machines for Knitted Fabrics

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Dyeing is a process which colors knitted fabrics or give a nice outlook of grey textile materials. Knitted fabrics become colorful with the reaction between dye solution and knitted fabrics. Dyeing is implemented in a dye bath containing dye solution. Dyeing process varies due to different raw materials of knitted fabrics.

In ancient times, dyeing was carried out in an open bath. The process is improved with the development of science. Nowadays, dyeing is more efficient than ancient times. Different dye machines are used to dye materials.

Fiber dyeing machine: As is known to all, fiber dyeing machine is used to dye fiber. Both natural materials and synthetic materials can be dyed in fiber dyeing machine. Fiber dyeing is more effective than yarn or fabric dyeing.

Yarn dyeing machine: Yarn is dyed for designed textile materials. Three types of yarn dyeing machine are used for dyeing:

1.Hank dyeing machine: This machine use to dye yarn in hank form. Sewing thread is dyed by this process.
2.Package dyeing machine: This dyeing machine use to dye the yarn in package form.
3.Beam dyeing machine: Here yarn is dyed in beam form.

Fabric dyeing machine: Fabric dyeing plays an important role in dyeing industry. Fabric dyeing machine is used to dye fabric. Fabrics may be woven, non-woven or knitted.
1. Jigger dyeing machine: This machine use to dye woven fabric.
2. Winch dyeing machine: In this machine both woven and knitted fabrics are dyed. Specially knit dyeing is done by this machine.
3. Jet dyeing machine: Knitted and woven fabric can be dyed by this machine.
Garments dyeing machine: Garments dyeing machine is used to give special effect on apparels.

The characteristics of dyeing machines decide performance of dyeing process. If dyeing machines have poor properties, dyeing process may be damaged. So, the following points should be focused when select dyeing machines.

1. Dyeing machines should provide sufficient movement of the liquor so that dye can penetrate uniformly into every parts of the textile materials.
2. The machine must consist of materials which will endure prolong boiling with acid or alkali.
3. Some facilities of adding concentrated dye solution so that it can become well distributed before contacting with textile materials.
4. The heating temperature should be maintained throughout the liquor.
5. All of parts and electric motors should be protected from corrosion of steam and acidic atmospheric condition.
6. The machine should have possible outlet and water inlet valves.
7. The machines should have some automatic temperature control device.
8. The machine should have the facility of auto programming system.

Yarn Preparation for Knitting Fabrics

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Yarn used for knitting could be grey or dyed. Yarn is the main raw materials for knitting fabrics. Yarn needs to be prepared for knitting. It cannot be used in directly after being collected from spinning. The ways which process yarn before loom are called as yarn preparation. Characteristics of knitting fabrics mostly depend on yarn preparation.

Necessity of yarn preparation: Various ways are used for preparing yarns. The followings are the necessities of yarn preparation.

1. Yarn preparation process can eliminate defects of yarns.
2. Preparation transfers yarns from spinning package to a convenient form of package which facilities the knitting.
3. Clean the yarn for better appearance and performance.
4. Have desired length of yarn in package.
5. Get fabric which has better quality.
6. Eliminate unwanted dust and hairy fibers.

Yarn preparation plays an important role for knitting fabrics.

Mercerizing Techniques for Cotton Knitted Fabrics

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Denim mercerization plays a key role for cotton knitted fabrics. Compared with ummercerized fabric, mercerized fabric is more suitable. In denim industry, mercerizing process is different form other mercerizing process. In general, dyeing is followed by mercerizing.

The followings are the process of mercerizing techniques for cotton knitted fabrics
1.Warping
2.Dyeing and sizing
3.Weaving
4.Finishing
5.Washing (in mercerizing machine)
6.Mercerization
7.Finishing without singeing
8.Inspection

Steps of processing in mercerization machine: In mercerization machine, the process is sequential. The first step is washing then is mercerization.

Washing:
Closed Tank-1: Desizing using detergent
Impregnation Tank: Desizing using detergent
Stabilization Tank: Water wash
Closed Tank-2: Water wash
Closed Tank-3: Water wash
Closed Tank-4: Water wash
Closed Tank-5: Water wash

Mercerization:
Closed Tank-1: Water Wash
Impregnation Tank: Caustic (NaOH) solution
Stabilization Tank: Steam supply
Closed Tank-2: Water wash
Closed Tank-3: Water wash
Closed Tank-4: Water wash (80℃)
Closed Tank-5: Acetic acid (CH3COOH)
Temperature in mercerizing- 41℃-43℃
Caustic (NaOH) concentration in bath- 250 g/l (500 g/l)
Bath pick-up- 95%

There are various mercerizing machine available in the market. Among of them, DHALL which is manufactured in India is the most popular brand.

Thread Counting System on Single Knitting Machine

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Thread counting system plays an important role on single knitting machine. Proper GSM of a fabric product is decided by thread selection. In general the quantity of yarns used for a fabric product is fixed. Thread per inch in warp and weft direction is measured to confirm the quantity of warp and weft yarn.

Thread counting system on single knitting machine: Single knitting machine has different types of thread counting system which can be used for measuring the quantity of threads in warp and weft direction of a fabric product. Followings are the most common types of thread counting system.

1.Counting glass/pick glass: It is most commonly used types of thread counting system. Counting glass is placed on the surface of fabric. A pin counts tread manually. It can be used to count course per inch and wales per inch of a knitted fabric which is widely used.

2.Traversing thread counter: Traversing thread counter is quit similar to pick glass. The counting pin is moved by means of a handle. It is used for measuring EPI, PPI, CPI and WPI of a fabric product.

3.Fabric dissection method: Fabric dissection method is a system which is cut for measurement. It is authentic and reliable thread counting method. The system is only used when other measuring systems are difficult to count.

4.Taper grating and line rating:
The test results are required in a short time.
A large number of fabric samples are required to test in a very short time.
The exact test result is unimportant rather a good approximation required.
Normally fashion designers use this type of instruments.

Thread counting system is an off line quality assurance system.

What is Loom on Circular Knitting Machine?

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Loom is a mechanical device on circular knitting machine which can insert warp yarn and weft yarn to produce woven fabric. In weaving technology, loom is the principle mechanical device on circular knitting machine for weaving. Various types of loom are used for weaving. Changing the setting of loom can produce different types of designed fabrics.

Loom is a mechanical device interweaving yarn to fabric for dress or industrial uses.

Classification of loom: Fabric is produced by the means of loom. Loom has a long history. In the early of the fabric manufacturing history, man used hand loom to produce fabrics. With the development of loom, weaving mechanism is also changed. Nowadays, the loom which is used for fabric manufacturing has high production capacity as well as complex design production capacity.

Loom is classified into three types:

Conventional Loom:
1. Hand Loom
2. Plain Loom
3. Twill Loom
4. Dobby Loom
5. Jacquard Loom

Automatic Loom:
1. Modern Loom
2. Missile Loom or Projectile Loom
3. Rapier Loom
4. Water Jet Loom
5. Air Jet Loom

Special loom can be classified into shuttle loom and shuttle less loom further:

Shuttle loom: Shuttle loom is the loom that inserts weft yarn through the warp yarn. Conventional loom and automatic loom can also be considered as the shuttle loom. Other special types of shuttle loom include short loom, broad loom, pile loom, gauge loom and tri-axial loom etc.

Shuttle less loom: Shuttle less loom inserts weft yarn through warp yarn. The entire shuttle less loom is called as modern loom. The production capacity of shuttle less loom is higher than shuttle loom.