Process of Manufacturing Knitted Fabrics

Knitting is the interlocking of one or more yarns through a series of loops which is the main activities for producing knitted fabrics. In every mill, a sequence is maintained in production processing. In every step, person should be responsible for the best production. The followings are the process of manufacturing knitted fabrics.

Firstly, a production is supplied to knitting manager from the merchandiser, according to the requirements of consumers. Then he informs or orders production officer about it and provides the schedule for producing targeted production.

1. Getting the analysis from knitting manager, design and draw a cam setting for producing the desired fabrics.

2. Getting the information, production officer informs technical who is in charge and knows about machine which the production will be run.

3. Technical in charge calls for leader of mechanical fitter troops who also take decision about machine for production considering machine condition, machine types, production capacity and maintenance complexity.

4. Production officer adjust required stitch length and grey G.S.M for getting final G.S.M., cooperating with experienced mechanical fitter.

5. Supervisor checks production regularly and makes operator consciously about finishing tin due time who is also maintain daily production report sheet and responsible to inform the production of that day to knitting manager.

6. Operator runs machine in high attention in case of faults in the fabrics. Any faults are found, he will call for the mechanical fitter who is in duty. Then, mechanical fitter fixes it or informs it the technical in charge. The technical will take necessary to remove the problem.

7. During production time, quality department also checks the fabric. If any faults are found, they will inform it to the technical in charge. Technical also takes necessary steps for reducing the faults in knitted fabrics.

8. When knitted fabrics completed, knitted fabrics will be sent for quality check. If the fabrics pass the quality, they will be sent for the next process.

Definition and Types of Knitted Fabrics

Fabrics are produced from a set of warp or weft yarn. Weaving and knitting differ for interlacing techniques of yarn. In weaving, warp and weft yarn are used for producing woven fabric. For knitting, a series of yarn in warp or weft directions are made of fabrics.

Knitting is defined as the process that sets connect loops from a series of yarn in warp or weft direction to produce fabrics. Various knitting machines are used to perform knitting. In general, knitted fabrics are classified into warp knitted fabrics and weft knitted fabrics.

Warp knitted fabrics: In warp knitted structure, different thread and the number of thread is made of each loop in the horizontal direction. Fabric is at least equal to the numbers of loops in horizontal row.

Weft knitted fabrics: Use one thread runs in horizontal direction to make a horizontal row of loops. The structure of weft knitted fabrics is different from that of warp knitted fabrics. Weft knitted fabrics have worldwide popularity.

In daily life, different knitted fabrics are used. Depending on the design of fabrics, knitted fabrics are classified into following types.

>Single Jersey
1. Plain Single Jersey
2. Single Jersey with Lycra
3. Single Lacoste
4. Double Lacoste
5. Single Pique
6. Double Pique
7. Polo Pique
8. French Terry
9. Terry with Lycra
10. Fleece
11. Fleece with Lycra

>Double Jersey
>Rib Fabric
1. 1×1 Rib
2. 2×1 Rib
3. 2×2 Rib
4. Lycra Rib
5. Flat Back Rib

>Interlock Fabric
1. Plain Interlock
2. Drop Needle Interlock
3. Interlock with Lycra

>Collar and Cuff
1. Plain Collar or Solid Collar
2. Shaving Collar
3. Jacquard Collar
4. Tipping Collar
5. Race Collar
6. Stripe Collar

Knitting machines also develop various types of decorative design. In modern times, auto stripe knitting machine is used to produce multi color stripe fabrics, which cannot be produced by normal knitting machine.

Knitted fabrics have different properties. Knitted fabrics depend on the atmospheric condition of the country.

Parts and Functions of Knitting Machine

Knitting machine can be classified into circular knitting machine and flat bed knitting machine. Both of them are widely used. A knitting machine consists of lots of parts. Every part is vital for running machine smoothly and has its own function.

Different parts of knitting machine and their functions:

>Creel: Creel is also called as the holder of cone. Cone is placed in a creel for feeding the yarn to the feeder.
>Feeder: Yarn is feed through the feeder which depends on the design of fabric.
>VDQ pulley. VDQ pulley is used for controlling the stitch of the fabric.
>Guide: Guide also called as the supporting element which is used to guide the yarn.
>Sensor: Sensor is an automatic controlling system which yarn passes through. If any yarn breaks down or problems occur, sensor system will stop the machine automatically.
>Fixation Feeder: Fixation feeder is used in electrical auto striper knitting machine to feed the yarn at specific finer.
> Rethom: Rethom is used in electrical auto stripper knitting machine.

Computer jacquard knitting machine to produce the wrong flowers, what is the reason squandering?

If you do not consider the special circumstances of particular organizations brought only consider the needle incorrect due to wrong flowers and squandering the case, there are the following possibilities:

a. poor knitting machine needle selection with the degree of synchronization itself, will lead to irregular squandering the entire disk, then re-adjust the parameters to the machine.

b. jacquard depth selector plate is not pressed, it will result in a lateral squandering. Jacquard middle pin is pressed into tablets linked, if the middle pin is depressed is not enough, the final intermediate needle still be quite straighten triangle knitting needle, appears certain large ones flowers confusion, squandering transversely.

c. Jacquard abnormal wear piece (jack or pins are similar phenomenon), will cause vertical squandering.

d. loom assembly design problems, resulting in an overall pattern confusion, this problem is relatively rare.

e. reset triangle or jack three track design or processing problems, resulting in particular large ones squandering. Problems in the case of being worn or fitted rear triangle design appears.

f. (position selector will jacquard sheet when pressed into the deepest barrel) relative to the needle selection jack triangle, the two are too close, leading to squandering. Middle pin needle selection is not completed action (being pushed jacquard pieces linked) has entered jack triangle track, leading to squandering, usually lateral squandering the entire disk.

g. selector and jacquard pieces assembled position with the heel of the poor, leading to squandering. For example selector at the head of this should not be pressed to lift jacquard piece, but because the low mounting position selector leads down to the jacquard piece, which appeared certain large ones squandering.

Process of Printing Synthetic Fabric

Compared with natural fabric, the process of printing synthetic fabric is easier. It is know that printing process depends on the characteristics of fiber. In cotton printing, the fabric needs to be pre-treated before printing while the pre-treatment of the fabric is not essential for synthetic fabric, because synthetic fabric does not contain impurities like natural fiber.

Process of printing synthetic fiber: Synthetic fiber has various types, and the printing process for synthetic fiber is not the same. The process of printing nylon varies from the process of printing polyester. And it also depends on the dyes and pigments.

The followings are the common process for printing synthetic fabric.

Fabric from weaving section

Stitching

Washing

Jet Dyeing

Stentering

Printing

Polymerizing

Washing

Stentering

Calendaring

Folding or Rolling

Packing

Polymerizing different monomer can produce synthetic fibers. After printing, finishing is done for adding some properties. So the printing sequence should be aware of.

Definition and Methods of Printing

Printing is a part of wet processing technology which is carried out after pre-treatment of fabric or after dyeing of fabric for producing attractive designs on fabric or other materials. Printing is described as localizing dyes or pigments which are applied locally or discontinuously to produce various attractive designs on fabric. Main objectives of printing are producing attractive designs with well defined boundaries made by the artistic arrangement of a motif or motifs in one or more colors. If dyes and pigments are applied properly on fiber, printed fabrics are protected from friction and washing. A strong bonding is formed between dyes and fiber.

Steps of textile printing:
Firstly, pre-treat fabrics before printing.
Use printing ingredient to prepare printing pasts. Printing performance depends on a well printing paste.
Use any printing methods to make an impression of the print pasts on the fabric, which is required.
Carry out steaming on printed fabric to fix the printing paste on the fabric.
After-treatment process neutralizes printed fabric.

Styles of printing: There are three different styles of printing: direct style of printing, discharge style of printing (including white discharge and color discharge) and resist style of printing (white resist and color resist)

Methods of printing: Using different instrument carry out printing. Use different method to produce impression on fabric. Demands of users vary methods which rely on the type of materials and the purpose of end product usage.

The followings are the methods applied for textile printing operation.
Block Printing
Burn-out Printing
Blotch Printing
Digital printing
Duplex Printing
Engraved Roller Printing
Electrostatic Printing
Flock Printing
Ink-jet Printing
Jet Spray Printing
Photo Printing
Rotary Screen Printing
Screen Printing (Flat Screen)
Stencil Printing
Spray Printing
Transfer Printing
Warp Printing
Special Methods (Tie dyeing and Batik Printing)

In the early of history, printing was carried out by hand. Nowadays, different modern techniques are widely used for printing, which are controlled by computer. Graphics design is also widely used. Textile machines improve printing methods a lot.

Process of Pigment Printing on Cotton Fabric

Pigments are mainly synthetic organic materials which have no affinity on the cotton fabric. For this, binder is used for making film on the surface of pigment so that produce a 3-dimensional cross linking between fibers and pigments. After drying, curing is carried out under 150-180℃ for fixing the pigments on the surface of cotton fabric. Price of pigment printing is lower than that of other printing process.

The following are the process of pigment printing on cotton fabric:

Recipe: Recipe can be changed due the depth of color
Thickener: 2%
Binder: 8%
Fixe: -2%
Water: 90%

Fabric Pre-treatment

Table preparation

Fabric plaited on the table

Pigment printing paste apply with the help of screen

Curing at 160℃ (belt speed 6.50 m/min)

Delivery

Process of Printing 100% Cotton Fabric

Printing is a method of wet processing technology which can produce various types of decorative and attractive designs on the surface of the fabric.

Process of printing 100% cotton fabric:
Printing is the most used process. Process of printing varies, due to the types of fiber. When printing natural fibers such as cotton, wool and silk, the impurities on natural fibers must be removed before dyeing and printing. The process is also called as pre-treatment process. After printing, finishing process is carried out for improve the out looking of the printed fabric.

Inspection of grey cloth

Stitching

Shearing or Cropping

Singeing

Desizing

Washing

Scouring

Bleaching

Washing

Stentering

Printing

Steaming

Washing

Calendaring

Inspection

Folding or Rolling

Packing

Process of Emboss or Pub Printing

Emboss printing also called as pub printing, differs from pigment printing, foil printing, flock printing or any others dyes printing, which is particularly used for making logo or other decorative purpose. In this printing process, printing is done by embossing the printing paste on the textile materials.

Process of emboss printing (pub printing)
Recipe: This is a sample recipe for emboss printing process.
Rubber paste: 49%
Pub/Emboss: 49%
Fixer: -2%

Fabric pre-treatment

Table preparation

Fabric plaited on the table

Apply printing paste by screen (3times)

Hanging for 15min

Curing at 170℃ (belt speed 3m/min)

Delivery

Emboss printing is mainly used for business card which can produce various types of glossy design.

Steps for Measuring Color Fastness to Washing

Color fastness: Color fastness means the resistance to changes when subjected to particulars of condition which is specified in terms of changes and expressed in terms to the magnitude.

Color fastness to washing is used for measuring the fastness of colored materials, which is carried out in dyeing lab. Based on different measuring procedures, the test can be varied. For quality assurance system, a record is maintained for dyed fabrics or finished fabrics. Computer color matching system (CCMS) can save the record.

Required materials: The followings are necessary for wash fastness test:
1. Sample size 40 x 100 mm
2. Multi-fiber at 40 x 100 mm
3. ECE detergent (WOB)-4g/L
4. Sodium Perborate (Na2BO3.H2O2-1g/L)-1g/L
5. Distilled water
6. Noramal cold water
7. Steel balls

Required instruments: Various types of instrument are required for measuring color fastness to wash, including rota wash, scissor and stitch machine.

Steps for measuring color fastness to wash: Color fastness to wash is an off-line quality assurance.
1. Cut sample and multi-fiber at 40 x 100 mm.
2. Take the sample with 50 ml ECE detergent (WOB) and 50 ml Sodium per borate. For marks and Spencer, take the solution by formula: (Sample fabric + Multi-fiber weight) x 50 ml.
3. Keep the sample under 60℃ for 30 minutes in Rota wash machine.
4. Rinse the sample twice with cold water.
5. Dry at 60℃ by hanging or by Flat iron pression but temperature should not be more than 150℃.
6. Dry the specimen and the change of shade & degree of staining is measured by Grey Scale and Staining Scale.